Francorp Client - Soul De Cuba

The Soul of Crown Street
Nicole D'Andrea, Senior Writer
08/06/2008
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If you go... Soul de Cuba 283 Crown St., New Haven; 203-498-cuba; souldecuba.com What makes a city a city isn't something you can exactly put your finger on but when you feel it, you know it.
That's sort of the best way to explain the vibe of Soul de Cuba, tucked away on the corner of Crown and High streets.
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Just 40 seats for dining and only a handful of stools at the bar, Soul de Cuba embodies everything that is the lifeblood of New Haven. Think diversity in culture, historically accurate native cuisine and of course, authenticity of ownership.
Birthed by New Haven staple Yoon Kim, son of Sung Kim who has operated Seoul Restaurant on Crown Street for many years and brothers Jesus and Robert Puerto, Soul de Cuba has solidified itself as a New Haven necessity since its doors opened in January 2005.
Shortly after opening the first location- about one year- Jesus revisited his past, traveling to the South Pacific where he used to do work for the Peace Corps and launched a second Soul de Cuba in Honolulu, Hawaii across the street from the Hawaii Theater.
Hailing from an international relations background, Jesus shares that he and his partners are now finalizing the details for a global franchise expansion of Soul de Cuba which coincides with the debut of the restaurant's new line of homemade mango salsa, honey balsamic vinaigrette dressing and mojo marinade which are sold in store and are coming soon to participating supermarket shelves.
Phoning in from Hawaii- he gets to run this location while little brother Robert mans the New Haven locale- Jesus explains, right now he's at a crossroads with his business and he's hoping to figure out what is the best way to replicate the Soul de Cuba concept on a national level and become one of, if not, the first chain of Cuban eateries.
But before this Afro-Cuban enclave takes the world by storm, it's important to consider where it came from and who the Puertos are.
Though Jesus has a lengthy background serving in the international relations field- he came to New Haven through Paul Newman's Association of Hole In The Wall Camps to serve Thailand, Southern Africa and Japan- his family's past is deep rooted in Cuban cuisine.
Coming to the Tampa area of Florida, at the turn of 19th century, Jesus' great grandfather Santiago Gonzalez settled in Ybor City, which is the oldest Cuban-American community in the U.S.
The Puerto's family established themselves in Ybor and became well-known bakers. Even today, Robert says, they have a cousin who has taken up the baking trade in Ybor.
Generations of Afro-Cubans from the Puerto lineage have contributed to the flavor and style of Sol de Cuba and when speaking of franchising in terms of a restaurant "concept" it's sort of impossible to do so because the mantra of the restaurant is anything but trendy, stylish or en vogue. There's no "concept" per-se because it's real, right down to the family photos, which adorn the walls and even the cigar box tops that decoupage the bar top- yes, the Puerto family was also cigar rollers in Ybor City.
By way of food, diners can delight in the traditional marinated pork, a famous Cuban dish called lechon asado where the meat is marinated 24 hours in mojo- a creamy blend of citrus, oregano and garlic- before cooking.
But also on the menu, there are dishes that aim to highlight the unique Afro-Cuban heritage that the brothers share. Jesus explains that in addition to meals bearing the namesake of their past, it's the paintings of Afro-Cuban spirituality and respect for family that really puts the soul in Soul de Cuba.
Rabo encendido, traditional oxtail stew shares a place on the menu with Abuela's sopa de frijoles negros and less conventional dishes like Robert's pollo Soul de Cuba.
Cooking for almost half his life, Robert has taken the reins of the business from behind the stove and says he continues to try to represent the Cuban and Afro-Cuban cultures with his food while also taking into consideration the importance of creating new dishes with more contemporary ideals.
Before the rest of the world has the opportunity to delight in the wondrous multi-sensory experience of Sol de Cuba, which wakes your mind and taste buds simultaneously, take advantage of dining in the New Haven location where it all started (283 Crown St., New Haven; 203-498-cuba).
The Spread: Lunch entrees $11-$16, sandwiches $7-$9, appetizers $7-12, dinner entrees $12-$21.Signature: Soul de Cuba offers jars of homemade mango salsa and bottles of honey balsamic vinaigrette dressing and mojo marinade for sale in store, and soon on participating supermarket shelves. Also, make sure to order the Puerto family recipe sangria or a classic Cuban mojito.
Beyond the food: Monthly, you can come enjoy drum nights at as the restaurant is turned from a dining space to a dancing frenzy. Check souldecuba.com for dates.What we ate: Pollo Soul de Cuba, $18 (Marinated chicken breasts (overnight) pan fried and served with Chef Robert's special salsa of mango, black beans, red onion and rum, served over arroz blanco and plantanos maduros.
What we thought: Soul de Cuba is the epitome authentic and represents the best of New Haven's multicultural cuisine. If you're interested in having some imported wines or Cuban influenced drinks, this is one the city's most romantic spots to do so. If you're dining, Soul de Cuba is known for making traditional Afro-Cuban food with a contemporary twist- evidence of its success is the sweet and hearty Pollo Soul de Cuba.

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